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Collectible art not only for showing, but also for use
Made to appear best for 1024 screen viewed with medium size fonts. This web site was last Edited March 31, 2012 |

For many years, one of my hobbies has been making knives.
My interest in the knives and edged weapons in general seemed to be always part of my life.
When I was just a kid, I have bought a couple of cheap hunting knives, but very shortly broke both.
Curiously both tangs broke inside the guard at the blade.
My first ever knife repair job - take all apart, than had my uncle weld the tangs back onto the blades, and me putting everything back together as if it never broke.
Not wanting to spent more allowance on more cheap knives later on, I have decided to make a knife for myself that would be unbreakable.
I have made the first one out of thick power hacksaw blade, and have re-designed the
straight traditional transition from the blade to the tang to add strength to
the obviously weak spot.
The knife was pretty crude looking, but never broke, and pretty soon all of my friends wanted me to make them one too.
so, that is how it all started.
Making knives in the school shop, my uncle's blacksmith shop, and later in the mill's shops.
I have learned how to forge and heat treat hardenable steel later in the collage workshop, and found that extra dollars spent on top quality materials for blades and handles made a big difference in quality and appearance.
Ending up with a professional finish was the biggest challenge of all, but finally achieved by years of practice ;-))
Pictures of some of my past & present work are available on a few web
pages for your reference, and the customer comments on my repair work is for you to check out.
Picture & Design Gallery (1/7 pages) | Comments
| Before and After my repair
CUSTOM DESIGN An important part of your purchase price when you buy one of my hand made knife is The Originality. And of course countless hours away from my family which is beyond any price. Be it as it may, do not ask me to make copies, or replicas of a knife you like in my Galleries. I simply do not make copies. That would diminish the value of both knives- the original's, and yours would always be only a copy. I can only make "One like that one" but the real Original. Design your own knife It is a great experience, and Most importantly, the knife might even
fit your
hand just right.
If you are ordering, keep this in mind and give your hand size. Small - 4-1/2" long, Medium - 4-5/8" long, Large - 4-3/4" long, Extra large - 5" long
Choose one of many varieties of exotic handle materials, you can
have inlays, fancy file works, scrim-shaw.
I have not found a satisfactory and lasting way of preventing brass
from tarnishing on the working knives, therefore fittings and rivets I mostly
use are Nickel/Silver alloy. Handles are highly polished hard and exotic woods like Ebony or Cocobolo, woods from Australia or Morocco, or imitation ivory embellished with multiple or single color scrim-shaw, or even from Recon stone like Lapis, Malachite, Azurite etc., usually separated from the full tang or fittings with colorful spacers. If you have a specific materials or look of the handle in mind, the Select Grade of woods of exquisite color or figure cost sometimes 2-3 times the base price, particularly rare and exotic burls, matched grain, ChromawoodŽ Stamina wood etc.
I make my blades mostly out of 440C and ATS-34
stainless steels, and now also from India Damascus and ThunderforgedŽ Damascus.
Planer blades (modified D2) make great knives, and I do make a few now and then from this material. I harden all my blades to 58-60 Rc scale, and triple heat treat, finishing ATS 34 in dry ice (sub-zero temperature) The forging of 440-C and ATS-34 gives me the flexibility to expand the blade shapes and curves and leaves less material to be ground off. The repeated heating and cooling of the steel while forging also gives the steel the time to reduce internal stresses and even up the structure. Works for me. Blades are hollow or flat ground with and apple seed edge, which seems to hold an edge longest, and sharpened to a razor shaving sharpness. I do a chisel edge on request - dulls faster, but sharpens easier with the stone. Each forged blade is marked with my trademark and number.
Blades out of Damascus and planer blades are mostly unmarked |
If you are a right handed person, a good place to have a knife hanging from is
a belt on your left side, so you can grab the sheath safely with your left
hand and draw the knife with right. The opposite goes for the left handed
person.
Swivel belt loop angles the sheath naturally when so grabbed. When ordering,
specify your preference.
It is preferable to make all arrangements by e-mail. Any
developments, change of mind, design, scanned pictures of work in progress or
checking on shipping can be relayed fast.
At hardness around 54-56 Rc, the blade is not hard enough to hold an edge for very long, but is hard enough to virtually guarantee, that you will break the tip off by throwing it badly, or using it as a pry bar, or break out a piece of edge by chopping bones. Use the right tool for the job. (I also make cleavers and machetes) The main function of knives is to cut or slice, preferably soft substance. |
Tony Hnilica *AJH* Custom Knives & Services PO Box 657 Lytton, BC, V0K-1Z0 Canada Phone: (250)455-2594 |
